These are the film I mentioned in last journal. When I was filming this video, I kept looking for different express for presenting different textures and qualities, even to film it from different angles, and also change the strength and time to stretch and release the fabric.

As a result, it enrich the quality with a single movement, not only regarding to how it react, but also regarding to how it does different from a single move to present a different texture.

After I took the short film and had a tutorial with my supervisor, he suggest me that I can take a film and time-lapse photo as well. And I think it is really important that to present what’s the difference from each fabric, I use this long exposure method to record what I want to present in these fabrics with different moods and qualities. It also give a better explanation for it connecting to movement generated on the body.

Garment2 is finished as well, the concept is totally different from garment 1. Comparing this two garments, the concept of this garment is more focus on how the entire garment react to movement, but garment 1 is more like partly react in more subtle way.

Here are some photos of garment 2, and a few films recording the interaction against the body. As you can observe, left side of the garment keep gives a different forms, and somehow the pattern extended and shrink followed by the movement. However, the other side almost always keep still, it provide a contrast when film them together, to see what is really happen between different qualities fabric reacting to a body move.

The garment is finished, here are some photos for fitting and testing the interaction. The interaction been designed happens slightly when the arms moves, as I mentioned in last article, the sleeve is a trigger for interaction, and it do cause the interaction. Besides, the back side of this half dress moves around on the body following by any movement happening on the body. Here you can see some detail when it react to different movement.

I keep moving on two separate garments. I replace the bodysuit with my knitted fabric which is knitted by elastic yarn and Grilon-like yarn to confirm essential outline and then join them together. 

Nevertheless, I met some problems with making sure the pattern of bodysuit side. Because this half is flexible and need to be tight, the pattern cutting is important for fitting the body correctly. While I was knitting back piece pattern, it went wrong entirely. Thus, I came out an idea that to put the bodysuit back to the mannequin and mark some outlines, then I will have the pattern which is not under any strength after I took it off.

Besides, here are some sleeve design I made for this garment with basic pattern. I designed it considering attaching to the normal side, and where I joint them is right beneath the hidden pattern, so that when it is been pull the pressure will convey to that area directly.

As a result of tutorial with my supervisor, I remade and rethought about my first garment based on manipulating same fabrics as considering the structure that will interact with human body, and also reconsidered the sculptural design with more subtle way in the detail of the garment. 

Besides, the sleeve will be totally different from previous one as considering it will be the trigger of generating the interaction, so it is supposed to be a stable structure attaching on the main piece, and the material will be the Grilon-like yarn that maintain the strength conveying to the mechanism on main piece. The other point is that the back side fabric will be slightly different as considering fitting on the body.

Since the tutorial with my supervisor, I’ve been thinking that how I can present the qualities of my fabric with a simpler way, thus I came out a solution basing on combining bodysuit/ leotard. It will be design in two pieces with half normal fabric and half bodysuit-like fabric which will be attached together at the middle. So the garment will tight enough to present the movement directly generated by body motion.

In addition, I’m also considering that the structure I will design for sleeves will go back to simpler structure for not making the design being too complicated (this idea will also apply into my first garment that I will remake it.).  Secondly, the other half I am going to make with elastic yarn only, but with Grilon-like yarn for contrasting moving part and still part.

Here is the first concept of this design, you can see that what I mentioned about. The bodysuit half will be my knitted fabric. And the normal part I will adjust the pattern to make it tighter against the body. 

This tutorial was mainly discussing about what things I should keep on developing and what should be stopped.

The thing that I should stop developing is that what Kathrine was asked me to do for New Designer and Notion Nottingham which is developing sculptural design based on what I have researched during module 1 corresponding with the design from Iris Van Herpen, 3D printing design, and other 3 dimensional designs. Those designs became only one of my inspirations from various areas, but not what I really concerning at the moment.

However, what Ian asked me to develop is closer to what my project currently concern about which is that research into fabric interaction against to body movement. So I think I have to remake my first garment for looking into the interaction but base on the same design. To think about how to present the quality that those knitted fabric has and also by arranging the garment structure for responding to body movement. 

Besides, I will also develop my second garment with different method that haven’t been used in my first garment.

I took several photoshoot by myself using very easy equipment for trying to present this garment. Here are the results I took, I tried to capture the movement while the model moving, and also take a close look focusing on the structure while it attached on the body, and look into is there anything will happen during the photoshoot.

Nevertheless, I would this design is a failure, because I didn’t consider any interaction which can be created by real human while designing this dress, so that there was no any sign showing the quality about my project and my fabrics which are focusing about. I was focusing about shaping and making a sculptural design that Kathrine mentioned from last tutorial. 

I am not sure this design is worthy to develop further. I think is time to have a tutorial with my supervisor since one month ago to inquire him about the direction of my partial garment.

This prototype was been asked to design for Notion Nottingham by Kathrine who thought that I should present something else rather than only fabrics, and also give a imagination of how my design going to be used. As a result, I started this half dress prototype.

I took one of my design which is combining with brain ripples and hidden pattern, so that I can arrange them according to different qualities it has. Because I didn’t make the panel for making a garment, the fabric is basically a rectangle shape, I have to manipulate them on the mannequin for foreseeing the outcome directly. I only took two of my samples for making this prototype, the other one I took was designed for sleeves, but I found out that it looks nice when I attached it on the back side of the mannequin, so I decided to join them together as a half dress.

But I don’t really consider that these two designs are matched while putting them into one design, at least in this design I don’t think it is suitable, especially the joint on the shoulder, or I can rethink about this part after Notion Nottingham.   

It’s been a while that I have not giving any try for Grilon, keep thinking that what other design that I can integrate with this yarn to create a sculptural and rigid surface fabric.

I came out several ideas, one of them is that making two Grilon yarn only fabric as a component, and attachment them together with a moveable joint, and at some point this joint is attached with other fabric. When the fabric is been move, it will turn out to affect the join as well, so that those tow Grilon component will move as a armor-like part of the garment. However I gave up this idea, because rather than to make a movement like this way, I want to present a movement in a more subtle way that observer need to watch it carefully in detail.

As a result, I move on to this idea creating a panel that containing Grilon yarn and elastic yarn within, and the shape looks like a Z, so that it can be moved as a joint to present same effect but within a panel instead of combining lots of different fabrics. 

So I steamed it and then put on a mannequin to shape the form as soon as I could, or when it cool down, it’s hard to reform it. Here you can see that it can follow body shape and also create a sculptural part if I want it. As considering the elastic part, I choose to hide them behind first, so that as long as Grilon part is been pull, elastic part will show up. But there has a tricky part is that the texture Grilon created is different obviously, it has a dissimilar look apart from my other fabric. It is a nice texture thou, but I am afraid if it is match or not. Looking into that point.

In terms of Brain X HP ripples, as I mentioned in that journal, I try to add elastic pattern in between every ripples, so that the direction of hidden pattern will be shown differently under stretching. 

However, this trying was not going well at the beginning cause of the elastic yarn that is relatively unstable to other yarn, and also the program is too complicated in details, so I almost give up for the first day. But I came out a solution for making it to knit easier, I enlarged the pattern, so that the elastic will be stabler comparing to a smaller pattern. 

Here is the result I got, rather than arranging elastic into a pattern, this is a new way that makes the stitch turning out to be a pattern itself, so the elastic pattern will follow the way the ripple goes. It stretches in two direction in this case, and you can see the different when it is under pressure. 

I found out a problem that all the hidden pattern integration I did are all in a horizontal direction. Thus I was thinking that what experience I learnt from Bran X HP ripple that the inner pressure causing the pattern transformed, it can be used in other way. 

Therefore, I created a sloping ripple pattern and add hidden pattern in between, so that even the hidden pattern on the program is horizontal, when it combining with sloping pattern it will present with a collapsing way, as you can see in the picture.

In addition, it also present an interesting thing that this pattern becomes a slightly 2.5 dimensional surface because of the ripple arrangement.  

I deconstructed brain structure, and rearrange them together into a simpler design that I think is more practical for some design. So here you can still observe that it keeps the element I used in brain ripple which is piling up the ripple in a particular way.

It becomes simpler and doesn’t have too many irregular line disturbing eyesight. At the same time, I also added a raw of hidden pattern in between which is been hided well, thus even if I make a garment with this sample with others, it could be a cushion between basic and complicated design.

Besides, I do like this pattern that gives me another idea of how if each ripple contain a hidden pattern, so that the pattern could stretch into different direction. I will make this idea becoming real.

After I did all of the works, I found out that I didn’t have any really simple pattern besides ripples. So I looked into very simple structure basing on jersey but with elastic yarn knitted together which will make it stretchable as well that my project concerning about currently.

Then I tried to put brain and hidden pattern ripples together, I found something interesting.

Firstly, I departed two combing brain apart and added hidden pattern between, as you can see the first image, pattern present a balance condition, there were nothing special, and same when it is stretched, just hidden pattern part presented that quality we already know.

Then I picked up only one type of brain ripple adding hidden pattern in between, I didn’t expected any difference, just wanted to see which design is better. When I got this panel, an interesting thing happened, those hidden pattern I added between is been stretched under no outer pressure which is causing by the unbalancing brain ripple combining that part of the design is really narrow. As a result, it becomes an inner pressure to stretch hidden pattern that fortunately is flexible.

So here is the result that I experimented with this two designs, I am wondering that those brain ripples pattern can be simplified into another design. I am going to explore it more which is my next step.

I start to integrate different quality fabrics together to explore what other possibilities that could be presented within a fabric also against body movement.

First try is combining bubble ripples with hidden ripples together. There were several tests with this combination that I tried to give a better idea for integration. At the beginning, I put those program together directly, so between hidden pattern and bubbles there were several extra ripples blocking, it didn’t looked nice, it looked like an unnecessary design over all panel. As a result, I decided to remove those ripples and only left bubbles and hidden pattern, as the picture you seen.

However, in this case, I don’t consider that there were new quality showing up causing by this integration. Although when it been stretched, those pattern and bubbles will transform simultaneously, I don’t think it is an exciting discover. I will keep on looking into integrating different fabrics as this is a first try.

I was thinking that how to combine ripples and elastic yarn for application, that I could develop on my partial garment, also that would interact with human body.

Thus, I started to think about arm piece because this part of human body give a straight way of showing movement. 

As a result, this is an example of one piece arm pattern that I programed. By designing the shrinkage of elastic yarn to create pattern shape, at the same time elastic part also respond to human movement. When bending our arms or swinging, elastic part will become semi-transparent that the skin color will show up.

These are my final works for Acorn project dividing into two by two fabrics using different design language but same basic knitted stripe fabric. 

There comes several idea of how to present my works in New Designer exhibition which is a very urgent up-coming event, after I followed the way Moxham told us how she did in her MA. 

As what I draw in my sketchbook, although they are still quite a rough thinking, at least it came out some idea that I can present it possibly. I am still looking for other layout that I could apply in this event. Maybe thinking about not to make a garment but make a 2.5D piece on mouldboard that I could control them better than making a real partial garment, and also stick my fabric on wall presenting a moving flowing effect.

This tutorial was supposed to discuss about portfolio thing, but it was actually a branding tutorial, but it is still useful.

Moxham gave lots of information that she made in her MA, how she branding her owe brand by collecting various aspects information, such as website design, Lookbook (dividing into indoor and outdoor two area), Photoshoot, display layout, and exhibition arrangement, etc. she collected this information and then made her own opinions own each one of the photo she collected. Later on, after this kind of analyzing others works, she got her own aspect of what I like and what I dislike, it gave a conclusion from others, but not from herself.

I think this way is really useful to me, because I am not that personality who really knows about branding thing, so that I could follow this method to analyze myself step by step instead of give it a very clear outline of what I want to brand.

As a result I, I start to collect lot of info from internet dividing into 3 individual aspects; lookbook, display layout, and photoshoot, and making my own branding folder.

I was thinking that to design a basic pattern ripple design rather than combining different stitches, and this is an outcome from another practice design, that I only extracted one small part of original design and developing into this sample.

I piled the basic structure up and giving different arrangements, so that it turned out to be like this sample. I didn’t thinking about designing in this way, only thought about arranging ripple area by area but not row by row. As a result it create this fabulous effect, I called it “brain ripples”. It will be my one of my final fabrics in whole collection.

And also I can apply this method into other design by piling up different size of this structures and making into an area dividing a panel. 

This piece is been created accidentally which is based on ripple design, but I simply extracted partial design to make it curling like a snake shape. But actually I didn’t like this outcome, although it is another way to present movement, it is too plain and too simple to give nothing interesting. 

However, I presented this single piece to Kathrine, she told me that this could be manipulated with multiple same pieces to create lace-like effect depending on how I manipulate them together, and asking me take part in Acorn project.

Here are some example for Acorn that I designed with that single piece. When I played around these pieces, I found out that even a single boring piece could become interesting by redesigning them, also it could be converted into an interactive designed fabric through this method. This method inspired me powerfully in thinking designing fabric rather than remotely designing but also manipulating.

If this fabric it been accepted by Acorn, then I will create a different and better version of this design as one of my MA final knitted fabrics. 

For New Designer exhibition, I have to present at least one partial garment that shows the interaction with body, so I draw several partial garment designs focusing on upper chest to arm.

While I draw these design, I was thinking differently. When I designed those fabric, I only thought about each individual how they react to the movement that body create. However, when drawing these partial garment, I had to think about the direction of body movement, also each pieces of fabric how they responds to a single movement when I arrange them together. As a result, I was thinking about how those fabrics which is been designed together react to every single motion simultaneously when I depicted down my thinking within sketches.

Somehow, I have to leave some space for the design that is not interactive to reflect where other part is interactive relatively. Thus, I have develop some basic repetitive pattern based on ripples. It is one of my current works.

I started to think about combining different material and stitches to create various variation for interactive partial garment design. 

This is an example of combining ripples and adding extra jersey between each areas of ripples which created a movable piece that I can arrange them on the body attaching them to different part, thus this piece will interact with the movement that model create.

So as I designed this one, it came up an another idea that if I alter the yarn of jersey part, so that those area will shrink when it is not under any outer strength, simply like hidden pattern one, then if it is been pull or draw, It will create another different movement, this two idea could be designed together to make it responding to body with different qualities. 

Kathrine mentioned about the New Designer thing, asked me what and how I will present my work followed with which area. She also mentioned maybe I could present it in different applications, like fashion, interior or even architecture area.

However, I still prefer present it as a more fashionable part garment design which is influenced more in my design work. Otherwise, if I present it within other areas, it will only defocus the pieces, and only show up the knowledge I lack of in those areas.

She also suggested me I could present with a film showing the interaction, and also arrange the design as a sculptural piece on a mannequin or simply large piece. I think part of the suggestion I agreed with. What I am thinking now, I will finished a part garment design before New Designer, and then present with several different fabric swatches following with a show film showing the property  of my fabric.

The feedback I got from after presentation and from my supervisor are different with two aspects.

Area to improve

• Textile innovation is the focus of your project and the film shows the potential of contrasting stretch and non-stretch component.

• Developing fabric ideas, which are contrasting in weight and performance.

• Important to consider the exciting work developed in Module 1. Is there anyway you can recreate these full size on a body and combine the craft material and the knit, adhering components or trapping the harder fabric with knit. 

• Perhaps part garments being make and the body being filmed wearing it. Consider replicating the same process you followed for the collaborative project and the knitting tube/sleeve. 

All above are the main points my supervisor suggested me. When I got feedback and read through it, I was confused, why the feedback is totally different from after presentation. Thus, I questioned myself, which is a better way for me to complete my project within this two month, capturing the movement and make a full garment, or pick up one of my concept which is fabric interaction, to explore the possibility and make several part garment.

What they think about my project was too big for me to finish within two month and I have to focus on a point and narrow down. I think they are right.

Next step

• To focus on developing interaction between fabric and human body which is based on what I done in my Module 1.

• To think about which part of the body is more suitable for me to present the quality of my fabric design. 

• To consider how I exhibit in New Designer. :p>

As consider to let people know what I was doing and what I want to do in the near future, I rethought about how important this project to me, it’s a very stretch forward way to present to public.

Therefore, I simplified the process taking the video by mobile phone in MA studio to perform the quality between several qualities fabrics, and how they interact. The keywords is “struggling” and “surviving” performed by myself. The results is somehow satisfied, I played and checked back in slow motion observing that how those fabrics interacting with each other, and perceiving the shape transforming while their moving. 

However, the point that I don’t satisfied with is that the combination between fabrics is not random enough to present the possibilities of combining more than two fabrics. As a results, the interaction in this video only shows up between two fabrics but not three or four. As a note, this point will be highly considered in my final prototypes to notice that what the interaction I need or I don’t need in my prototypes and also the proportion of each fabrics which will influence the level of interaction.

I kept thinking what the core of my project is for these two weeks, and I realized something. At the beginning, I was thinking that I could capture the dance movement and interpret into knitted garment. I kept doing the right things until the end of module 1 assignment. But there are some voices questioning: where is your movement of dance, so I thought the movement happens when the fabric interacts with human body. Therefore, my investigation turned out to explore the possibilities between human body and knitted fabric in most of this module.

However, now I realized that what I was doing is already deviated from my original concept which is capturing the movement, I try to re-think all of what my project is about. And eventually I had a conclusion.  

My final project will go like this way: 

•  Ask dancer to dance with keywords I gave for twice. One for original thought, the other for thinking it carefully.
• While dancing I will photograph it as a long exposure photo.
• Take those photos develop sketch to form into different shapes.
• Fill those shape with several selected knitted structure.
• Develop a sketch for wearable garment based on those shape and fabric combination.
• Knit it and make it as a garment.
• Film the interaction of final prototype which will present a different qualities between fabric combinations.

What I try to do is to go back to my original concept and at the same time keep the interaction idea within my project. So the working title and the intent follows like this:

The ultimate knitted garment

The “conversation” both visual and physical between selected knitting structures and the human body. Investigation at four critical stages, the key attribute (positive outcomes) to inform the development and refinement of a wearable garment. This garment will project the key characters of the knitted structure and it’s interaction with the human form.

Methodology

Stage 1: sample of development
Stage 2: sample of basic shape in knit fabric types
Stage 3: basic shape in own knitted fabric
Stage 4: wearable garment
Photo & film:
- Capture the visual dance to be analyzed.
- Communicate and promote characteristics.

I prefer female model to be my model of final prototype, but as speaking the reason I haven’t sorting it out why. This is the reason why I wrote this down for.

Comparing to male’s body, female’s body can present more cursive line which is relatively softer than male’s body figure. And I think the softness is essential to my project as the dance is a combination of continual movements, and no matter the shape or the line it created is always lasting from a point to another.

 On the other hand, female’s body is been considered more acceptable from wearing a wide range of garments instead of male’s body. And for some of human being they are subjective who will think a guy who wear in weird from garment is bizarre which will affect how those people judge the aesthetic perception of the garment. 

To concludes, I think female model is more suitable for my project, because I consider my final prototype will not be designed as a normal garment shape like fashion design. But more conceptual way. 

This project goes like this way, I’ve decided a few keywords from my past experience that I will provide these words to the dancer I hired. And I will explain and ask them to wear my prototype and perform the keyword I gave immediately without thinking deeply. After the first round ends, I will ask them to perform the keywords again and think carefully how was the last that they didn’t perform well, or thinking another way to present that keywords. At the same time, I will keep filming the whole process of dancing and any interaction while they are playing.

However, this project is been cancelled cause of some real problem considerations; first, I don’t have enough resources of everything including dancer, proper equipment such as camera and tripods, and suitable dance studio, and also the fabric combination couldn’t present the quality of my design well. Secondly, I was kept thinking what this experiment is for, there were still some points disturbing me, especially the part of capturing the interaction between dancer and fabric. What I should do is to catch the movement of dance rather than the interaction which is completely different from my original concept. But there were something need to be mentioned is that the keyword part, this can be instantly integrated into my project which makes my project livelier. It makes the project more relating to myself.

I was thinking what “interaction” is, so I reviewed the mesh project from Maria Blaisse. I came out something that I didn’t notice before. Before that, I always thought interaction is only happened between my prototype and body movement. Based on this point, I always considered that how to strengthen the interaction between body and fabric. However, after I reviewed the project from Maria Blaisse, I found something new.

There is a film that the director record down how her design moves, and also there are several branch designs that succeeded from same concept which shows a different potential of how it interacts. Therefore, I watched it carefully and thinking what something else I can get from it. I conclude the following points:

•  When moving, what other things will be affected 
• Play with other stuff, observing how them interact 
• How it influence environment, like footprint or any wrinkles 
• Key words for designs; from the original design, Maria created her prototype following 6 different key words which provide different qualities.

As a result, after I reviewed, this gives me a wider thinking of my project which makes me thinking more clearly about how my project would develop and how it could interact not only with body but also environment, surroundings. The last point also is very crucial to my project at the moment, I had been stuck for a month because I don’t know what shall I design my prototype. I was thinking that capture the dance movement, but the dance movement itself presents a meaningful emotion which is that I want to to get rid of from my project. Nevertheless, I am now thinking that to ask myself what is the key words to me, what is dance to me, there must have some special words of dance to me. That is what I am planning the next big thing.

Dance- is type of art includes movement of body, often with rhythmic and to music. It is performed as a form of emotional expression in terms of expressing an idea or telling a story as a nonverbal communication.

Play- to perform and manipulate not in a particular way, in order to explore the hidden quality beyond my knowledge. 

Interact- to act one upon another, shows possibilities that how the object will react. 

Capture- to represent or record in a lasting form. 

The reason why I wrote these down is because in order to make myself clearer about what’s the difference between play, interact and capture, and also realize how there three words relates to each other. For me, play is more like before interacting with my fabric, I need to know what qualities my fabric got. And once I know who they are, I start to think about how I use these qualities to interact with movement, so the interaction will happen. Then, in order to record down what happened during interaction, I need to capture it with no matter what way I apply. Thus, these 3 words became linking to each other rather than just 3 separate words.

Inspired by last experiment of Grilon yarn, because it provides a totally different quality comparing to normal knitted fabric which is flexible and stretchable, I was thinking how to combine with my different designs, so I tried to put it between hidden patterns making it forming a contrast within moving and still.

The result is better than I expected, when I pull the fabric the pattern shows up, but the Grilon yarn inside remains still like a rock. I think next time I could redesign it with a meaningful pattern rather than just put it between the elastic ripples, if I could arrange it accurately with different proportion within my prototype it will become more interesting.  And this design also could be applied with my different fabric as well. The combination with this fabric is been expecting.

As I reviewed my previous experiment I was thinking how to duplicate the outcome comes from foam experiments, so I kept searching that what kind of yarn could present a similar quality as same as foam which provide a heat forming quality. Therefore, I found Grilon yarn which could provide a similar texture if I heat it up, and I also could pinch it into different shape, but it would become very rigid fabric and also cannot be reshaped again. 

As you can observe, the fabric became wrinkled and loos like foam shape with a very rigid hand feeling. I was glad to see this result because that means if I could control how those ripple flow on within an area, it could present a very interesting effect comparing to other area.

After that, even I only got one piece of this fabric, I draped on the mannequin to simulate a chest shape by using Photoshop and exchange the colour into black one which I prefer my prototype would use black as a main tone. The outcome looks fantastic to me, it reminds me 3d printing design, even now I already quitted that part, but it still inspired me most. The chest looks hovering on the body with a very gentle way which is what I didn’t expected before. 

After this, I could think more about how to use this yarn combining with other structures, because it gives a totally different quality comparing to normal knitted fabric which flexible and stretchable. I could think that it part of my design designed with this yarn, when other part of design moving, it will stand still as a very rigid part.

I knitted a giant fabric as an experiment to test how my prototype responds to the movement of dance. The fabric is been knitted based on partial knit ripple but with a looser stitch quality. The project runs as I wore it and then boogie with it to the music, at the same time someone will help me to film it down with different aspects.

The experiment failed, because I didn’t figured what I really want at the moment when I filmed it, the outcome is more like play around with my fabric but not to explore any possibility of how my fabric responds to the movement. Therefore, next time I will try with another way like with different qualities fabric which is inspired from my designs combing together, and to record down how it respond to movement between different fabrics. How those fabric will react to the movement. 

Besides, I also draped this giant fabric on mannequin to visualise how it looks with a larger scale fabric. Although this is a very shallow experiment, but I still find something interesting me which is when those ripples flow in different directions, how I arrange them becomes very important. Meanwhile, the ripples within different areas present a boring design to me, cause there is no any contrast between them, so if I could design with different material such as viscose, silk, or using chunkier gauge or different types of ripples which I tried before.

After had a test with elastic yarn, I was thinking how this kind of fabric integrating with my project deeply can. So I, firstly, programmed it with a pattern which is from my sketches, and then tried if the pattern works well or not. It did work, even more than what I expected especially within colour black.

Black colour ripples work with white elastic yarn mainly covered the elastic structure about 70% to 80%, and also black one is relatively closer to my intuition. How about white one? Black elastic yarn is too strong to white acrylic yarn, it could be seen easily without pulling it.

In addition, I suppose my fabric as a tube shape because our body is basically compounded by 6 or 7 tube-like objects. Therefore, as I did in the video I asked someone wearing on arm moving randomly, the elastic pattern will shows up when it moved. 

What will I do next is to develop the pattern that maybe follow the real dancing movement covering the whole body, making the human body as a photo to present that pattern. Also I have to work out a better way to hide the pattern as much as possible before it is been pulled.

Divided areas with different yarns 

I was thinking that if I can use different yarn within my ripple partial knitted fabric, it would present richer texture with my garment. As a result, I tried programing first and then thinking about what kind of yarns I got in my hand, I found nothing, so I just testing with storage yarn but with same color tone. However, what I found its all acrylic, I had no choice but to knit first. 

The fabric looks balanced because all of these acrylic yarns have a same strength and similar twisting degree. Or I was thinking that it would create a distortion because of the twisting degree. And also I am thinking that this experiment couldn’t reach the purpose which I want to see, the texture.

I was hoping that if I use different yarns, such as silk or viscose yarn, it would present an opposite bright and smooth effect comparing to acrylic yarns and also the hand feeling will be totally different. It could give a comparison. So next time I going to use yarn, like silk or any other yarn with different physical characteristics.

update 1, silk yarn integreted

I got my silk yarn working with it, although this fabric looks horrible because of the color isn’t right. It still had some things being worth thinking.

As I mentioned in previous article, the comparison caused by the texture with different yarn did affect the fabric’s quality, that makes design more subtle and deeper, the luster from silk yarn reflects under light. That drives me thinking about how if I use fancy yarns working with silk, wool and others, it will give a richer quality of fabric.

 At the same time, silk couldn’t work well with acrylic, because the stretch intensity is different, and if I did not adjust the stitch quality for each yarns, it couldn’t work well within a swatch. As a result, if I will apply more than 3 different yarns in my prototype, the stitch quality control is crucial to my project including design, hand feeling and fabric weight etc.

• Film a person who wear in my garment testing possibility of the movement.
  I will do this at the end of module 2 so far I could have enough swatches to present different feeling of movement.

• Think of creating a dance for my textile – consider different bodies doing the movement.
  That is exactly what I am thinking at the moment, I would create a short film that simply capture how my garment responding to the garment rather than a choreography.

• Concept is more important than garment for male or female.
  Yes, no matter male or female, concept is more important than who I made for, performer could male or female.

• Swatches is more about how the knits are affected by the body.
  On this point, I should reconsider how I design my fabric, to capture the movement is too ambiguous for the project. Again, the question for my project What is dance?

• Reconsider the relationship of your swatches to dance and body.

• Consider lighter (more fluid) swatches in addition to my stiff swatches.
  In this view, I will try to find the balance between sculptural design and fluid design.

• More fashion sketches.
  Yes sir.

After I found out other design element from Iris Van Herpen, I review my ripple fabric and programing it in a new way. I was thinking that instead rising a minor part of the fabric how about basically create a large scale of shape by programing in computer first, and then draping on mannequin. The outcome is not good enough thou, I was still too cautious about programing, the new one only formed a mountain-shape hill but not an entirely fabric. Thus this signal pointing out that I am supposed to change the design method form the bottom of my programing process.

One more thing I should mention here, after the tutorial with my supervisor Ian which is the second time after module 1, I showed him my current work of these fabrics, he gave me some suggestions:
1. Try as various yarns as possible with your current work.
2. Think about while the wearer moving how my garment will respond.
3. Use elastic yarn/ Lycra instead normal yarn fill between ripples, and between ripples it is not necessary to use ripple again.

Nevertheless, although the effect is not what I expected, I still keen to know how my fabric work with human body so far. First one I draped the pleats one, which I am considering to give up, apparently the fabric is too soft to support itself forming a fixed shape, and I need to do lots of adjustment for it. At the moment, I am thinking that my final prototype as a very clean outfit with a subtle detail one, so I couldn’t find it beneficial to my project.

Following the next, I pinned my ripple fabric on, I really like the shape on stand which cause irregular ups and down and also the lines dividing ripples makes me thinking of the human muscle which present a natural figure of woman’s body. That looks so beautiful to me. But I noticed that no matter the white or black one, if I only use ripple for my garment, it will be very boring.  Thus, as a result, two layer become more crucial to my project, I might be using it crossly for two times two will have 4 results. 

Afterward, if I consider pleats as a vertical stripes, relatively ripple would be the horizontal stripe in structure. On the other hand, I found one experiment from my previous work which I was creating some texture with my foam experiment, and that makes me think of this ripple structure via partial knit for distortion effect. Later, I modified a few program problems, the first non-flaw fabric turns out to be an exactly great piece to me, and it looks really like my sketch one. 

But considering the yarns I still have no idea what kind of yarn I suppose to use. Although I asked Jane who is now a PHD  student for some advises, and she did give me a few suggestion, such as using stiffer yarn for shaping the form to support the fabric, or adding some nylon blended with high proportion of Lycra to make it being shrinkage and also keep the shape as 3D as possible. Anyway, I will keep looking into finding proper yarns for my project, even yarn is not crucial to my project, but I still have to catch a suitable yarn. 

Back to my ripple, after I done this fabric, I was thinking how to combine with the pleats one, or put them together playing around the shape it create. In addition, I will try to change how I program the ripple and the scale of ripple, and maybe also adding different structure mixing with ripple, and do some color selection while knitting different part of ripple. Also keep searching better structure for making a contrast to ripple, or by knitting with different yarns with different texture.

After I tried the previous one, I started to think about how to make it become more 3 dimensional, except the ripples it already had, I put additional ripple between those original ripples. The outcome is impressive, fabric directly swelled up like a balloon which where I put those additional ripples. And next, I will rearrange and organize those ripple with different patterns which is inspired by previous research and Antwerp & Paris trip, and starting thinking about how to apply on to final prototype.

Surrealism

At first step in the exhibition, I don’t know what the Surrealism is, it seems that it combine everything together, and to describe it as an art decoration. The exhibition was not a quite big one, but I almost spend two hours to finish it for I watched every pieces carefully. For me, surrealism art is not about design or aesthetics, it is more about the reason why he/she created this piece, under what kind of circumstance they were, and how they think of their pieces reflect to what they think at that moment. Although, it is about deconstruction and construction. It turns out to how I deconstruct dance movement and how I construct them together by and within my knowledge.

Decorative Art

In this exhibition it includes a wide range of decorative art from ancient china and modern jewelry to various different type of decoration.

One of the most impressive one is a china bowl stolen from China that the color is fabulous and unbelievable, it presents a mix color of green and blue forming a very nice luster around the bowl, and it’s difficult to get the balance being so elegant. And there are plenty of rest piece to mention. Although I had seen them before in my country by using similar technique, every time I saw them I still overwhelmed by its delicate work. It is hard to image how long time they spent on a piece engraving etc.

In addition, there also have a great bunch of jewelries were well designed in such a modern way, not only keep its previous impression but also breaking rule of old fashion jewelry-making way.

While this trip to Antwerp, we had a chance to visit the exhibition of “Antwerp Six”.  To be honest, this was my first time to observe the master piece in such a short distance, and I could observe the every detail with my own eye. Every works were great enough to me to overwhelm my soul for whole day there.

I mentioned some of their works relating to my project, and also makes me think about the pattern, silhouette, and how to integrate them together. First, as you can see the picture, this one was a patch-patterned blazer by using jewelry. This piece makes me considered the softness of the garment, although it was patched by jewelry, it looks so stiff, the line between pattern and pattern soften the silhouette balancing the sense of stiffness created by jewelry.
To my project, I am now using ripple structure as one of my main techniques, the hand feeling of ripple is stiff, but if I could add some lines to balance off those stiffness, It would create a better hand feeling, and I also think of that the back of ripple a stiff and light yarns to deduce the weight of fabric.

Secondly, in the picture, I really like the way how he deal with the side look of garment and how he piled the fabric up using different sizes, patterns and the direction of the fabric. Besides, an interesting part is that this piece is basically a two-layer piece, it could be easily found from its side look, it reminds me to think differently. Because it was always one piece in my mind while I think of my prototype, I didn’t think of it as two layers and so on. Except ripples, I also keep looking for second structure as my vice main structure to support my project, but I am stuck on the effect I want. Something plain, something transparent.

The last one I have to mention is this one from Pierre Renaux, it reminds me the role of my 3D printing. It is hard to tell what kind of material it is without touching it, but the effect simply present a contrary against the background fabric on texture and also color. To my project, I want to use 3D printing secretly, almost being hideous part behind my knitted fabric. But that raised a question that why should I use 3D printing secret but not outstanding? These days I keep searching for the answer, except my first though for 3D printing is always the 2nd. Important thing but not 1st, I also didn’t come out of any idea to integrate them together, also the price is a problem. Small part of 3D printing to highlight the quality of my prototype is enough, I don’t have to do it like Iris Van Herpen.

I was starting my knit structure exploration recently, but I had no idea at all at the beginning. I just knitted on brother machine and tried to recall my knowledge from my BA degree. After several testing, I started playing around partial knitting with very humble and informal way to make a slope.

After I done my first partial knitting swatch, I noticed that each courses were appeared sloping, and I only knitted it with single jersey. Subsequently, I was thinking that how if I add stripes or vertical/ horizontal structure, and then control the degree of slope, I could make a dance-like feeling with this method. Consequently, I did some program with Shimaseki power machine designing a pleats structure to make sure it would bend as the course goes.

The slope is too gentle to see the consequence, but it still appeared slightly bended as the course goes that proves my thought is correct. As a result, next time I will program a greater slope, and also with different structure.

On the other hand, there is a difficulty came to my mind. Partial knitting, how could I control it well including the program skill and the adaptability of yarns? I still keen to knit with monofilament as part of my project which the support quality is needed.

After that, I programed a more over shape for partial knit by using the same structure, simply pleats. The effect looks better and closer to what I expect, the slope is great and the pleats goes bended as the program, and even the fabric is not a flat surface anymore. 

It may have some ups and downs while draping on a mannequin, and this reminds me 3D printing to fit in those gaps between fabrics and body.

   And I suppose the next step is to design the different gaps inspiring by my previous works, like my draping or foam experiments, also play around with different scale of pleats and change the way it collapse making it become more sculptural and distortional.

I did some experiments with the same structure (didn’t change the scale yet), but all in the same collapsing direction, It could be easily think of the fabric would be a circle shape, and that inspiring me a lot to create various shapes. Besides, I also bended the fabric making it forming an irregular hole on the fabric, this also drives me thinking of this fabric using with another way.

Bloody Bullet Suggestions

Think about what type of yarns could create during sketching.

At this stage I am supposed to think about yarns during developing knitting structure. While I thinking what kind of yarns I want, there were several yarns came to my mind; yarns with luster and flexible (spun with elastic yarn or Lycra), and not need to use wool, cotton etc. to pursuit using natural fibers, but a rough surface quality to highlight the luster part.

Use different methods/structures to create same pattern from sketch. 

I think this point is suggesting me to think about my pattern transferring into knitting structure without the first impression to avoid the habit while designing. Things/articles put to Reflective journal needs to be explained.

Things/articles put to Reflective journal needs to be explained. 

After had a quick view of all of our reflective journal, she mentioned we have to figure what is important and what I put in Journal all of them is needed to be explained, how, why, and how it command my next step. Just a reminder that do not put everything into Journal. 

Review previous research and think about how to integrate into current experiment.

She suggested me that I should think more about how to integrate my previous case study and how to apply with my development, and don’t let the research becoming just an assignment for proving I done my research.

After all the testing for exploring the possibility and silhouette of 3D printing, I began going back to focus on knitted fabric and structure. 

Before starting on designing knitted fabric, I conclude several qualities that my knitted fabrics should include. First, if I am keen for 3D shape, this means that I should consider the support ability of the fabric. Secondly, I should consider my fabric as an easy to shape structure. And the last thing, as the limit of 3D printing now, color black is the only color I could apply in my project.

As a result, the first material and structure came to my mind is the monofilament and spacer fabric, so I quickly programed and knitted on power machine by using the monofilament yarn borrowed from Phill which is 90D mono. And the outcome is depressed, this mono is too thin for working on 7G machine, all the qualities I mentioned is missing.

Later, Will saw the fabric and borrowed a monofilament form other for me, which almost like thick enough for fishing, to knit again on 7G machine. Consequently, the fabric is well-shaped look and has a strong support ability.

After this two simple experiments, I keeping myself continuing designing on this structure to exploring the possibility of combining different structures, and also considering using plating to correct the hand feeling of fabric. And keep looking for other structure provides such a similar quality, and maybe find different yarns to alter the qualities.

Overall all these six samples, no matter before do it or while doing it or after I did it, there were countless idea and inspiration comes to my mind, so I make myself a conclusion of how to combine knitting and 3D printing together: 

Depart pattern and create rhythm on it;

Create texture that knitting cannot easily apply, but also shows up the contrast;

Use printing to fill the space with printing and to create special effect;

Make the knitting looks alive; 

Transparent effect, and the interaction between both; 

Use printing to last the movement of knitwear; 

Printing as a pattern but not an attachment.

While doing this draping, I started thinking about how if model wear it on would be like. The garment will be transformed freely by the movement of model, so I create lots of pleats and pieces imaging that those pleats will move around the body and “printing” part, pieces, will wind on the body.

And in this sample, I had confirmed how I will arrange knitwear and printing before I started it. Besides I also think printing as one of a pattern but not an attachment. As a results, it, again, present another feeling while putting them together. There are bunch of potential need to be discovered and explore.

After review my previous work, in these two draping I try to correct the question I mentioned earlier:
  Think draping and “printing” simultaneously;
  Make “printing” soft enough to fit the draping; 
  Define garment and wearable art of mine; 
  Connection between each “printing”; 
  Integrate draping and “printing”.
As a result, I was thinking those questions while I developed following two draping.

First one, I would say this one is a garment-like draping, but maybe not for publics but for celebrities. I designed lots of wrinkles at both side and back, although it looks quite plain at front side. I left two obvious area for 3D printing while I was doing draping I could imagine where I should add on printing and how it will present in my mind.

Following the picture, you can easily tell the 3D printing part at the front side, two stripes and at the back side, two lacer-cut-like piece. At the front side, I cut an entire stripe into several piece, put it on the body fitting the figure, also bended a little leaving some qualities of printing, and those pieces merge together with the side wrinkles. At the back side, the lacer-cut-like piece, actually I want to do more with this piece such as adding another layer to create perspective, covered the plain part of the back. And with this transparent effect, I can also see what happened on the knitwear part, this point means the interaction can be designed if I can foresee the printing part. This is a good try for me to thinking about integrating further.

Second one, it is entirely different. I want to change the way of how I draping which always balanced. In this design, It is difficult to tell the front or back, and I would call this is wearable art. No one would wear this on the street, it is like nothing but something curled on the body, and only the designer knows what this design is. In this draping, I want to create some free lines of how is the feeling of dance to me and presenting it differently. Those curves on the body looks randomly moving around the stand, but actually if you follow the direction of curves, you can see the track between each ups and downs.

And in this part of printing, I simply designed it to extend those curve in order to complete the movement of each hill. Besides, when these “printing” extending, they were designed under following the track. Although it looks very rough, it provide another method to design between knitting and 3D printing. 

To last the movement that knitting cannot express. 

inspire by Pina Bausch 1

I continued exploring the possibilities of these two materials, and to dig out more combinations of how 3D printing would work when it comes to knitwear. When I took my drawing inspired by Pina Bausch, those lines greatly evoked me developing another draping. I started from the front center of stand with a comfortable and balanced patterns, and extending out becoming wilder and wilder till the backside of stand. Besides, I also left some space between fabrics and layers for next step.

Next step, I began adding some foam on to this draping, and I cut some line to create texture while I bend it to shape the draping. And I mentioned the space, same, I used foam with texture to fill those space which create a special effect. I won’t said that in this design it is good, but it did expand how 3D print combine with knitwear. I will continue to expand this method further. 

However, I don’t like the foam design on this draping, it was not soft enough to fit those turns and curls. And I also thinking that if I use a thinner foam to simulate 3D printing part or inter-use different thickness foam, and outcome must be totally different with much richer combination.

inspired by Pina Bausch 2

Same as previous one inspired by my sketch, but I simplified patterns. It looks more like a garment than a wearable art. Now, I am confused whether garment or wearable art is what I want to develop. Anyway, I will figure it out sooner or later. Back to design. Much simpler and purer, but still I could find some rhythm and interaction inside this draping.  Looking into a big hole between arm and body, and the wrinkle surrounding it, it looks great for me.

And this time, I added some foam to the body with texture but left the hole. The foam was bended into curve shape with iron in order trying to fix the problem I mention in first one. Those foam looks not so rigid on this draping, and the line looks like is alive. This is what I expected, knitwear it dead, and how to use 3D printing to make it being alive when model wear one it, no matter she or he is dancer or not. 

It still got some drawbacks that I don’t like, such as each foam is disconnected to others, and the “hole” don’t have any interaction with “printing”. It seems like what I am doing is just put “printing” on to knitwear, but not to integrate. Try to correct it next time!

By using Jersey fabric, knitted fabric, simulating knitwear structure and foam to create 3D-printing-like shape, and combine them together by draping. First, I didn’t think of how to combine them but I was thinking how to use jersey to express the feeling of dance, and repeat again this project is based on KNITWEAR. So I quickly draping on to semi-scale stand about how I feel about dance, creating some curves and holes. But it was horrible, the first prototype, I gave up this one.

And the second one was better, balanced appearance and also not so exaggerating. So, after I captured a few photo from that, I started to think how to add foam on to it. Looking at the patterns and departing them into several individual pieces, I didn’t consider too much at this stage, but actually thinking adding foam to create the design that knitting is difficult to achieve. Layer with gap, those rhythm from pattern to pattern, jump off from fabric, these are my observation in this design.

Reflect to my project, with this method I can create and develop more designs quickly, at the same time, these designs are supposed to be my resources in the future. But I don’t think this method is enough to present both knitting and printing can create, it must be applied with correct fabric and more suitable material for simulating 3D printing.   As a result, after a few experiment I will start to working on my knitted textile with Shima, especially in partial Knit.

The interesting part I mentioned in Circle Shape Form in last paragraph is here, the red line part. The twist is distinctive obviously compare to others, it don’t have any twist like others, but it do form a curve, and these makes it stand out.

So I left this part on its original position and redesign the rest of foam and form. It makes the form look totally different from previous two design, it has more dynamic lines and gaps, its rhythm became stronger, and also some of those foam expanding and extending. It is AMAZING. Although they were same pack of pieces, if using different skills, it will present another feeling. So, done more experiments and gain more experiences. 

More observation with various different angles and details, more i can find.  

As a result of front part of design, I decided to add the other circle chopping into different pieces like previous one making it into a whole garment shape, and observing it with 360⁰ full angles. Watch it with slider.

Reflect to my project, after these experiments, I considered that foam, regardless, can be easily shaped into as much possible as you want, there still has its limitation. In designing in detail, I have no choice but follow those piece of foam how it can be shape in each individual, not everyone is suitable in any degrees of angle or also I don’t know whether it is suitable for twist or bend. So in this condition, I must find some more flexible and more easy to shape than foam, and more similar when I design in 3D model.  

I drew some pictures after I found that two photographer and start to think how to transfer those dynamic line into my design. So, I used rest of my form, which is the easiest way to do that, chopping them into small pieces without specific shape, and sticking them onto quarter stand with 2 different approach which is also inspired by long exposure and time-lapsed photography.

One is randomly arranging them and pinned them onto the stand with some space between the stand which looks horrible when I pinned on all of my piece. But if I zoom out what I have done in quarter stand to a regular stand, the quality of whole piece 3D printing part would have a splendid texture on it if I adding more texture on it.

The other one is that I pinned them together followed silhouette of the chopped piece as close as possible, then I found that not only more elegant and in harmony but also present a flowing quality with the pattern. However, what I did with this method, I cannot find the potential of that only 3D printing can do, and this means that no matter knitting structure or fashion patterning can do that.

But  it also makes me thinking that what 3D printing can do that rest of those cannot do,
- Different thickness to each piece or within a piece/pattern.
- Texture inside of appearance.
- Irregular wrinkles
- Interlock structure

 Bill Wadman / motion

He was inspired by his friend showing him a series of slow shutter speed images his friend had taken of a boxer with the movement of punching his opponent. And later he was planning about capturing people who move as part of their job, such as athletes, construction, cooks, etc. But he began with dancer, he found that those photos were amazing, so he decide all the subjects should people whose use of motion is their living.

Shinichi Maruyama/ Nude 

He tried to capture the beauty of both human body’s figure and its motion, and each of photo were combined with 10,000 photo of a dancer together. By putting them together uninterrupted, the outcome appears different compared to what actually exists.

Reflect to my project, when I am wondering how to record the movement of dancer, I think of long-exposure photography and time-lapse photo. Then I found these two photographers who shoot the exactly photo that appears in my mind. But I want the photo to be more creative or dynamic, or even only part of the body is dancing, there are several ideas in my head. I will try to take some photos making all that to be real.

Mosaic/Pile

As I been using this material for a few days, I continued to explore digging into different possibilities. I first chopped it into 4 pieces, then kneaded it after ironed it, this make it forming into distinctive piece from each other, then I pinned them together with various direction. With the lighting, the texture on it shows potential that I could do more experiments with it. Meanwhile I test with a larger piece that shows more wrinkles on it that I can control it easily. 

Mosaic

As a result, I chopped more pieces into square shape with the same finishing, but no one can be identified without named on it. So I borrowed a quarter scale stand to stitch on it and recorded it. 

After I had finished, I found it difficult to control the direction of each pieces, I could barely pinned them all together and formed a disagreeable shape. But it did predict how it will look if I enlarge them into a normal size with 3D printing attaching on a standard stand.

Pile

Then, I used another method with randomly arranging on to stand, this one may had a more 3D looks, but I prefer the previous one than this one. Because an over loud shape is not what I want to make. In another way, it offers a more possibilities for my project.

Reflect to my project, I suppose to try more different method to construct my own-way 3D modeling, then applied into programming in another way witch I cannot tell now. Obviously, the easiest way is to hire someone to help me with 3D modeling, and I will cost a fortune to me. Anyway, to explore, to dig, to adventure is what I can do now.

She is an immigrant from Japan to America, and she began her designs from 1950s. She used to think about how to use commonplace material in new and original ways was influenced by her teacher. Then she continued exploring diversity of materials during all of her art pieces within different aspects.

Tied wire sculpture

Inspired by a desert plant, as long as she received the plant she, at first, wanted to draw it, but it was too difficult to depict it on paper rather than using wire sculpture. Then she began to see all the possibilities from various aspects, such as shapes, forms, colors and abstract forms using geometric center.

Reflect to my project, the part of the combining different materials to different designs is similar to my project, so that I could do some connections to my experiment with wire of different materials that i did not consider before. And there actually research in this area before. Besides, the organic lines and shapes are my drawbacks, in some points it is really interest that the transparent quality of the wire designs, the transparency is a unique point while designing that may give you more unpredictability and if I can control it properly, it will be really interesting.

A company based in Belgium called “Materialize”, they are the pioneer of 3-dimensional printing customer online service, and there is a website for consumer called “iMaterialize”.  Every one of us can upload our own 3d design model and they will help you step by step to produce your own design works and send it to you. They got 17 different materials for 3-dimensional printing, and two of them which are the most welcome materials in fashion area are polyamide and the other one is call TPU92A which is a rubber-like material and is fully flexible material which means you can print something you can wear it in your daily life.

And I asked them to send me the samples of these two materials, so that I can compare two of them which is a better material for my project.

polyamide

I received 7 colors pack of polyamide. First look, the color is bright and is tough, but as to my knowledge, it do have slightly flexibility when in a large scale that I could be slightly bended when we do that, and also the color is diverse on the website. 

Theoretically It can be dyed with any color if I want, but it will cost a lot, the website now provide black, dark gray, blue, and red, to keep prices as low as possible. 

Rubber-like TPU92A

TPU92A is a rubber-like material which It can be bended in a large scale like what I presented in the picture, and It will recover to its original shape as soon as possible, that means this material can produce garment or accessory which we can were in our daily life.  

But the color is limited, it only can be dyed black (origin is white). But this is a break new material that is first material with fully flexibility and it is still under developing.

Her choreography was known for sadness and humor, and we can easily find that most of her works were talking about the relationship and emotion between man and woman. Besides, she linked every routine together forming a choreography, and also “Repetition” was one of most important part in her works. 

Café Muller, 1978 

This was her first open choreography. She combined dance and theater together. 

At first, not all the mainstream comments admired her combination, but after a while she began to influence the whole section of dance. In this case, Pina as a dancer behind the stage was moving like a water weed, sometimes stood still, and sometimes danced repeatedly to reflect the main dancer’s inner feeling.

Masurca Fogo, 1998 

Repetition was still one of the important element in this choreography. And at the beginning, the woman wear in red she looked like a water weed the same as Café Muller, she was manipulated by other dancer on the stage, such as a water weed moved by the ocean. 

Part of performance of Masurca Fogo  from YouTube.

Considering whole process from designer and outcome to how we dispose the product. And Designer as the central role of all process happened surrounding by 5 main ideas; design, production, distribution, use and end-of-life.

- pattern making & toiling: zero waste;
- design for durability; 
- engaging with local supplier and producer. 
- looking into what happen new;
- thinking about input and output before start;
- mono-material makes product easier to recycle and reuse;
- broaden your knowledge of sustainability.

She thinks about the process of Fashion industry, and provides several methods to achieve the sustainability. Although it is hard to imagine that following her method step by step, I could think about what I can do in my MA project to make the world better such as using mono-material or how to provide a more convenient way for consumer to repair/ reuse. 

She gave a bunch of great example of how sustainability works with real design physically, and called it RECONTEXTUALIZATION, following examples:

steinwidder/ remake fashion

she stitched socks together to create a new style of her design in several pattern, and the design is amazing! She called this REMADE FASHIONED. 

In this case, she combined recycled socks and other piece of fabric to reinvent  fashion, though it is not a entirely new idea to the world. But she arranged the sock perfect with elegance and peace.

Paulina Plizga

Main idea: How we turn something invaluable into something valuable?

We can easily tell that in some of her works reuse the recycling fabric including  lace, knitted fabric and also other accessories, combined all of them together with a graceful and elegant skills into garment/ cloth. In some points, it is similar to the previous one; Steinwidder, but I think they aim for different market, and use the distinguish design language of recontextualization.

she started her brand in 1991's which is so early that before everyone really notice the issue of sustainability. Observing her designs from 1991's to 2013's, it is hard to believed that she insist more than 20 years ( and still continuing) on designing in this area.